Breed Guide
Shetland wool: small sheep, a big tradition.
Shetland sheep come from the Shetland Islands, north of mainland Scotland. Their light, springy wool in a wide range of natural colors is the backbone of Fair Isle colorwork and fine Shetland lace.
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The Breed
- Northern European short-tailed — one of an old group of small, hardy sheep that also includes the Icelandic and Faroese.
- Small — one of the smallest British breeds; ewes typically weigh about 75–100 lb (34–45 kg).
- Light fleeces — usually around 2–4 lb (0.9–1.8 kg) a year.
- Protected at home — the Shetland Flock Book Society was formed in 1927 to keep the breed pure in the islands after cross-breeding hurt wool quality.
- Kept worldwide — Shetlands are now raised in many countries, so "Shetland wool" can mean the breed as well as the place.
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The Fleece
| Trait | Typical |
|---|---|
| Fiber diameter | Wide range: fine fleeces in the low 20s µm, coarser ones over 30 µm |
| Staple length | About 2–4 in (5–10 cm) |
| Character | Soft, light, springy and slightly hairy; holds together well |
| Felting | Felts readily |
Fineness varies a lot between sheep and even across one fleece. The softest Shetland wool is very soft; much commercial Shetland yarn is a sturdier, slightly prickly blend of grades.
How Shetland compares with other breeds: Wool & Specialty Fibers.
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Natural Colors
Shetland sheep come in more natural colors than almost any other breed. The breed society recognizes eleven main colors and around thirty markings and patterns, many of which combine.
| Color | What it looks like |
|---|---|
| White | Clean white; takes dye well |
| Moorit | Reddish brown, a Shetland word |
| Fawn | Light brown to tan |
| Grey | Silver through mid grey |
| Black | Very dark brown to black |
Many Shetland yarns are spun undyed in these shades, or blended from them, which is why traditional knitwear often has soft, earthy tones.
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Fair Isle & Shetland Lace
- Fair Isle is named for one of the Shetland Islands. Traditional patterns use about five colors in a garment but only two in any one row, with the unused color carried across the back in short floats.
- Knit in the round: Fair Isle bodies are traditionally knit as a tube, with steeks at the armholes that are cut open afterward. Sticky, non-superwash Shetland wool holds a cut steek well.
- Royal boost: Fair Isle became fashionable after the Prince of Wales wore it in public in the 1920s.
- Shetland lace: the finest fleeces were spun into cobweb-weight yarn for lace shawls, the best known said to be fine enough to pass through a wedding ring.
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Shetland vs. "Shetland-Style"
"Shetland" on a label doesn't always mean wool from Shetland, or even from Shetland sheep. The word is widely used for a type of yarn or sweater: a woolen-spun, lightly brushed, medium-fine wool with that characteristic springy, slightly hairy hand.
| Label says | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| Native Shetland Wool | A UK Protected Designation of Origin (granted 2011): pure-bred Shetland sheep raised organically on the islands, with processing there too |
| Shetland wool from Shetland | Wool grown on the islands; ask the seller if it's not stated |
| Shetland wool (breed) | From Shetland sheep, which may be raised anywhere |
| Shetland, Shetland-style, Shetland-type | Often a description of the yarn's character, not its origin |
If origin matters to you, look for the islands named explicitly or for a breed statement on the label.
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Working with & Wearing It
- Great for colorwork: the grippy fiber keeps stitches even and floats in place.
- Blooms when washed: the fabric fills in after a soak, so swatch and wash before measuring.
- May prickle at first: a layer underneath helps, and many Shetland garments soften with wear. See Why Wool Itches.
- Hand wash cool: untreated Shetland felts easily. Dry flat.