Specialty Fiber

Cashmere: what you're actually paying for.

Cashmere is the fine, downy undercoat of the cashmere goat. Two sweaters can both say "100% cashmere" and wear completely differently. The difference is in fiber diameter, fiber length and how the yarn is spun.

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Where Cashmere Comes From

The undercoat only — goats grow a coarse outer guard hair and a soft insulating down underneath. Only the down is cashmere.
Harvested in spring — the down is combed or shorn as the goats molt, then dehaired to strip out the coarse guard hairs.
Small yields — each goat gives only a few ounces of usable down a year, which is a big part of the price.
Main origins — China (especially Inner Mongolia) and Mongolia produce most of the world's supply, with Afghanistan and Iran also significant.

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What Makes Better Cashmere

Factor	Better	Why it matters
Fiber diameter	14–16 µm	Finer fibers feel softer
Fiber length	Longer staple	Long fibers stay anchored in the yarn and pill less
Ply	2-ply or more	Plied yarn is stronger and holds its shape
Knit density	Tight, springy fabric	A loose knit stretches and wears thin faster
Guard hair	Fully dehaired	Stray coarse hairs prickle

The "hand" in a store can mislead: some cheap cashmere is heavily washed or softened to feel luxurious at first, then pills and thins quickly.

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The US Labeling Standard

Under the US Wool Products Labeling Act, a fiber can only be labeled cashmere if it's the fine undercoat of the cashmere goat, averages 19 µm or finer, and contains no more than 3% (by weight) of fibers coarser than 30 µm.

Blends must list cashmere's percentage. "Cashmere feel" or "cashmere touch" on a label usually means no cashmere at all.

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Cashmere vs. Merino

	Cashmere	Fine merino
Typical diameter	14–19 µm	16–19.5 µm
Feel	Silky, very soft, slight halo	Soft, springy, smoother surface
Warmth for weight	Higher	High
Durability	Pills more, less abrasion-resistant	More resilient, holds shape better
Odor resistance	Good	Very good
Price	Several times higher	Lower
Best for	Sweaters, scarves, luxury knits	Base layers, everyday knitwear, activewear

Merino grades are covered in Merino Micron Standards.

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Pilling & Care

Pilling is normal at first: loose short fibers work to the surface. Remove pills with a cashmere comb; it slows down once they're gone.
Hand wash cool with a wool wash or gentle shampoo, press out water in a towel, and dry flat.
Rest between wears: giving a sweater a day off lets the fibers recover their shape.
Fold, never hang, and store sealed and clean to keep moths away.